Pattern Making: Essential Garment Construction Techniques for Global Designers

Pattern making is the foundation of garment construction. Whether you're a seasoned designer or just starting your journey in fashion, mastering pattern making techniques is crucial for bringing your creative visions to life. This guide offers a comprehensive overview of essential pattern making and garment construction techniques for designers worldwide, catering to a diverse range of skills and design aesthetics.

Understanding the Basics of Pattern Making

Before diving into specific techniques, it's important to grasp the fundamental principles of pattern making. A pattern is essentially a template used to cut fabric and assemble a garment. It represents the flat, two-dimensional pieces that, when sewn together, form a three-dimensional garment.

Key Concepts in Pattern Making:

• Measurements: Accurate body measurements are the cornerstone of well-fitting garments. Take precise measurements of the bust, waist, hips, shoulders, and other relevant areas. Refer to international sizing charts for standardization and adaptation across different regions.
• Ease: Ease refers to the extra fabric added to a garment for comfort and movement. Different types of ease include wearing ease (for basic comfort) and design ease (for stylistic purposes).
• Grainline: The grainline indicates the direction of the lengthwise and crosswise threads of the fabric. Maintaining the correct grainline is essential for garment drape and stability. The grainline is usually marked on the pattern piece and aligned parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric.
• Notches: Notches are small markings placed on pattern pieces to indicate where different sections should be joined together. They ensure accurate alignment during the sewing process.
• Seam Allowances: Seam allowances are the extra fabric added beyond the cutting line of the pattern, used for sewing seams. A standard seam allowance is often 1.5 cm (5/8 inch), but this can vary depending on the garment and fabric.

Essential Pattern Making Techniques

There are two primary methods of pattern making: drafting and draping. Each technique offers unique advantages and caters to different design approaches.

Pattern Drafting

Pattern drafting involves creating patterns from scratch using precise measurements and geometric constructions. It's a highly technical process that requires a thorough understanding of anatomy and garment construction principles.

Key Drafting Techniques:

• Flat Pattern Drafting: This is the most common type of pattern drafting. It involves creating patterns on a flat surface using rulers, curves, and other drafting tools. Start with a basic block (also known as a sloper), a simple, close-fitting pattern based on body measurements. These blocks can then be manipulated and adapted to create a wide variety of garment styles. For example, a basic bodice block can be transformed into a princess-seamed dress, a fitted jacket, or a blouse with various neckline and sleeve variations.
• Using Pattern Making Software (CAD): Computer-Aided Design (CAD) software is increasingly used in the fashion industry for pattern making. CAD programs offer advanced features such as automatic grading, pattern nesting, and 3D visualization. Popular software options include Clo3D, Browzwear, and Gerber AccuMark.

Example: Drafting a Basic Bodice Block

To draft a basic bodice block, you'll need your body measurements, a ruler, a set square, and pattern paper. Follow these general steps:

1. Draw a rectangle using the bust width and bodice length measurements.
2. Mark the shoulder point, neckline, and armhole.
3. Shape the armhole and neckline using curved rulers.
4. Add darts for shaping around the bust and waist.
5. True the lines to ensure smooth transitions between the different sections.

Draping

Draping, also known as moulage, involves manipulating fabric directly on a dress form to create a three-dimensional pattern. It's a more intuitive and creative process that allows designers to visualize the garment's shape and drape in real-time.

Key Draping Techniques:

• Basic Draping: This involves draping muslin fabric on a dress form, pinning it in place, and marking the desired style lines. The fabric is then removed from the dress form and transferred to pattern paper, where seam allowances and other details are added.
• Advanced Draping: This involves more complex draping techniques, such as creating asymmetrical designs, working with bias cuts, and incorporating intricate details like pleats, tucks, and gathers.

Example: Draping a Simple Dress

To drape a simple dress, follow these general steps:

1. Cover the dress form with muslin fabric.
2. Pin the fabric at the center front and center back.
3. Shape the fabric around the bust, waist, and hips.
4. Mark the desired neckline, armholes, and hemline.
5. Remove the fabric from the dress form and transfer the markings to pattern paper.
6. Add seam allowances and true the lines.

Garment Construction Techniques

Once the pattern is created, the next step is to construct the garment. This involves cutting the fabric according to the pattern and sewing the pieces together using various sewing techniques.

Cutting Fabric

Accurate fabric cutting is essential for achieving a professional-looking garment. Here are some tips for cutting fabric:

• Lay out the pattern pieces according to the grainline. The grainline should be parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric.
• Pin the pattern pieces securely to the fabric. Use sharp pins and place them close to the cutting line.
• Cut the fabric using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Follow the cutting line accurately.
• Transfer all markings to the fabric. This includes notches, darts, and other important details. Use tailor's chalk or a fabric marker.

Sewing Techniques

Mastering basic sewing techniques is crucial for successful garment construction. Here are some essential sewing techniques:

• Seams: A seam is the line where two or more pieces of fabric are joined together. Different types of seams include plain seams, French seams, flat-felled seams, and serged seams. Choose the appropriate seam type based on the fabric and the desired aesthetic.
• Darts: Darts are wedge-shaped folds sewn into the fabric to create shape and contour. They are commonly used to fit the bust, waist, and hips.
• Pleats: Pleats are folds of fabric that are pressed or stitched in place. They add fullness and texture to garments.
• Tucks: Tucks are similar to pleats, but they are narrower and stitched down along their entire length.
• Gathers: Gathers are created by drawing up fabric along a line of stitching. They add fullness and softness to garments.
• Hems: A hem is the finished edge of a garment. Different types of hems include rolled hems, blind hems, and serged hems.
• Facings and Linings: Facings are used to finish edges such as necklines and armholes. Linings are used to add structure, warmth, and comfort to garments.
• Closures: Closures are used to fasten garments together. Common types of closures include zippers, buttons, snaps, and hooks and eyes.

Finishing Techniques

Finishing techniques add the final touches to a garment and ensure its durability and appearance. Here are some important finishing techniques:

• Pressing: Pressing is essential for creating a professional-looking garment. Press each seam and detail as you sew.
• Understitching: Understitching is a technique used to prevent facings from rolling to the outside of the garment.
• Topstitching: Topstitching is a decorative row of stitching on the outside of the garment.
• Hand Sewing: Hand sewing is used for delicate tasks such as attaching buttons, hemming, and securing linings.

Advanced Pattern Making and Garment Construction Techniques

Once you have mastered the basic techniques, you can explore more advanced methods to create complex and innovative designs.

Transformational Reconstruction

Transformational Reconstruction (TR) is a design approach that involves deconstructing existing garments and reassembling them in new and unexpected ways. This technique challenges traditional pattern making conventions and allows for creative experimentation.

Zero Waste Pattern Cutting

Zero Waste Pattern Cutting aims to eliminate fabric waste during the pattern making and cutting process. This sustainable approach involves carefully planning the layout of pattern pieces to maximize fabric utilization.

3D Pattern Making

3D pattern making utilizes digital technology to create and manipulate patterns in a virtual environment. This allows designers to visualize the garment's fit and drape before cutting any fabric.

Global Considerations in Pattern Making

When designing for a global audience, it's important to consider cultural differences, body types, and sizing standards. Adapt your pattern making and garment construction techniques to accommodate these variations.

Sizing Charts

Different countries and regions use different sizing charts. Be familiar with international sizing standards and adapt your patterns accordingly. Offering a size range that caters to diverse body types is also crucial.

Cultural Considerations

Respect cultural norms and traditions when designing garments. Consider factors such as modesty, religious requirements, and local dress codes. For example, designs intended for specific regions might need alterations to conform to local customs regarding coverage or embellishments.

Climate and Fabric Choice

The climate of the target region should influence your fabric choices. Use lightweight, breathable fabrics for warm climates and heavier, warmer fabrics for cold climates. Also, consider the availability of certain materials in different regions.

Resources for Pattern Making and Garment Construction

There are numerous resources available to help you learn and improve your pattern making and garment construction skills.

• Books: Look for comprehensive pattern making and sewing textbooks. Some popular titles include "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong and "Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear" by Winifred Aldrich.
• Online Courses: Platforms like Skillshare, Udemy, and Coursera offer a wide range of online courses on pattern making and garment construction.
• Workshops and Classes: Attend local workshops and classes to learn from experienced instructors.
• Online Communities: Join online forums and social media groups to connect with other designers and share knowledge.
• Blogs and Websites: Many fashion blogs and websites offer tutorials, tips, and inspiration for pattern making and garment construction.

Conclusion

Pattern making and garment construction are essential skills for any fashion designer. By mastering the basic techniques and exploring advanced methods, you can bring your creative visions to life and create beautiful, well-fitting garments. Remember to consider global factors such as sizing, cultural norms, and climate when designing for a diverse audience. With dedication and practice, you can develop your pattern making skills and embark on a rewarding career in the fashion industry.

Actionable Insight: Start with mastering the basic bodice and skirt blocks. These form the foundation for countless designs. Practice drafting and draping these blocks until you are comfortable manipulating them into different styles.

Example: Consider the kimono, a traditional Japanese garment. Understanding its construction – primarily straight seams and minimal shaping – is crucial when adapting the design for contemporary global fashion. Its simplicity can be a valuable lesson in efficient pattern making.